Temple Discrimination and Elephants

Well once again my vacation hasn't gone as planned.  After two days on the train, which went surprising smoothly with mostly just a lot of reading as well as meeting a very nice man who bought me Chai while we talked. I'm in Thrissur right now, a town in the region of Kerala. Kerala is beautiful and green if not humid and scorching hot. Anyway,  while as a white person I am not allowed into the temple I most wanted to go. The Catholic Church has no racially discriminating rules and gladly let me come in and view the beautiful cathedral dedicated to Mary (I think). Of course as always no photos allowed inside so this shot will have to do. I did manage to see am elephant walking across the street. It was AWESOME. But by the time I got around to playing and running after it  had disappeared. Anyway, after walking around and trying to find something worth while to do I finally gave up. Now I'm just eating grapes on my bed, watching a movie and waiting for my midnight train. Next stop, the beach!  I figured,

how can I go wrong with the beach... Crossing my fingers.

Getting Lost, Swindled, and Having Fun

So today was a much better time that I have had since I got here.  The day was hot, but hey it is India in the dry season.  I spent the day lost, but not as lost as before.  I managed to see the Golden temple dedicated to Shiva (no photos allowed), more of the Ghats, as well as the Jantar Mantar (one of the earliest observatories in India).  I also managed to have a Lasi at the famous Blue lasi cafe' (thick milk, with sugar and flavors like pineapple, mango, blue berry, banana, etc).  Finally I also let myself get suckered a little bit.  First I wanted to buy some necklaces from a street vendor.  The guy that got me was very nice and explained everything about the necklace, which god it was dedicated to, he even gave me a wrist band that he infused with his good karma.  Finally we got down to the price.  He started high, I mean REALLY high, and I managed to talk him down to about half his price and what I thought was a fairish foreigner deal.  Turns out I think I paid close to what Indians would pay for them, and I didn't mind the extra because he was nice and made me laugh.  The second guy randomly was going the same direction down a street.  We started talking and he found out I was walking to a place near his shop.  So he had me stop in for some Chai tea and had his friend start the sales pitch.  I ended up walking out with a shirt, three scarves, and a purse for what amounts to about 20 USD.  He also walked me to the monument I wanted to see and never would have found on my own.
So all in all, while I may have paid for too much some times, and gotten lost.  Today at least I did it having fun. 
So here are the pictures I have been promising.  More to come after tomorrows three day train ride.

Lost in India AND in a Maze but Blessed

So today I ended up in Varanasi. If you read my past post you will note I said I was on my way to Jaisalmer, Well getting on a wrong bus, trying to sleep on the floor, and finding out I was literally heading in the wrong  landed me here. It isn't a total loss since I was planning on making this stop anyway. But it is quite annoying that I found out today I have to go BACK to Delhi on order to move on.
Anyway. Since I was here I figured I would get my sight seeing in.  I made my way to the Ghats, holy river water, and watched the people bathe themselves to receive the blessings. I then received an offer to sit down and before I realized what was happening I was being swinddled into receiving a blessing where the Bhrama tried to charge me 500 ruppees for something that at temples is done at no charge. I gave ten, half the cost of a bottle of water, and said thanks. Then I got lost for about two hours walking in what I swear could easily be considered an official maze. I ended up having to use a compass to find my way out.
I have to say, I think my favorite part of this whole trip so far, other than the juice,-which I'm still not sure what they put in it, is the food.  I have not tasted a food I haven't liked. Indian food is probably one of the best cultural foods I have ever tasted.  Plus the diversity is great, I'm trying a new meal each day.
Anyway, this is a picture of me, recently blessed, and lost in the maze. Once I get a bit more time and internet will upload some of the better photos.

Pick Pocket and Trains

So my first day in India was spent getting lost on the metro and seeing the lotus temple. I had planned on seeing a few more but couldn't figure out where they were and instead of being late for my train from trying to find them I decided to head back to get my bag at the hotel and then to the train. Good thing I did because I couldn't remember the name of the metro station where I boarded. So after wasting an hour of back and forth on the train I made it. Getting to the train station was a bit of an ordeal. Standing at the bus stop I felt someone try to pick pocket me. I wasn't sure or I would have blown up at him but then he tried again on the bus this time getting caught by another passenger. But sometime between the guy yelling at the thief and getting off the bus I was successfuly pick pocketed and my note book with all my sites I wanted to see, the names of the hotels I was going to stay at, and other info was taken. Thankfully the only thing I didn't have an extra copy of was the hostels, so no worries.  Considering what else I had in my pockets I got very lucky.
But I finally, with the help of some fellow passengers, got to the bus station just in time...except the train was twenty minutes late so I was plenty early and had no need to rush at all.  This is a picture of the sleeper class car I'm riding in. It is the lowest class available, I.e. cheap, and it is a busy place for sure. People constantly are coming up and down the aisles with stuff to sell, bags, and the like. The bottom bunk during the day acts like a seat, the second bunk is the back to the seat, and only the top is always a bunk.  I managed to get a top so I am free from the over crowded lower seat as long as I don't mind laying down the whole time.  Still, the next train I might spring for a car with air-conditioning.

Hello India! (Yikes!)

Sorry there isn't any pictures. You will see why in a minute.  So I am in India, but lets just say it has been a rough start.  I got to Dubai with no problems, but either the airplane food or the food I bought with the voucher provided to me by the airline gave me food poisoning.  I was very excited to fly Emirates, but I have to say I am NOT impressed.  Well, the food poisoning made it an uncomfortable ride, and as much as I hate to admit it, the poor lady next to me hearing the famous eruptions was probably pretty close to as uncomfortable as I was.  But, the real horror started as I got off the plane.  Having held things through the flight, I just made it to the restroom and...well I will let you image the rest.  Then through customs I was doubled over in pain, receiving more than a few stares as well as a few compassionate nods.  The Emirates official at baggage check didn't have a whole lot to say to me when I told her how sick I was, but did provide me a bottle of water when I asked, and had one of the baggage guys help me get my bags and a taxi.  Then it was on to the couchsurfers house...except not.  I got to the area we were supposed to meet but his phone was turned off or something and I couldn't get in touch with him.  So I had the taxi drive me to a hotel...any hotel so I wouldn't be sick in his cab, but of course it was more expensive that I ever wanted, but since I was about to explode I accepted it and got to the room.  After a few hours rest it was out to get some juice, since I wouldn't be eating anything for awhile, some meds, and a new sim card for my phone.  In the room I watched movies and wondered if I had made a mistake coming here.
Today I am feeling better, and while not 100%, more than what I would have needed in order to get out of the house in Ethiopia.  So after my first real food in India, (stir fried veg. with a black bean sauce) and walking around seeing what India's backstreets looked like, I was feeling much better about my decision to come here.  Then it was off to find a hostel with a more affordable daily rates.  The bus ride to this part of town was quite nice, although it is rather hot here, with people helping me find my stop, and the bus officials finding me without a ticket, I am still unclear where you actually buy them, and am thankful the bus officials helped me get a day pass instead of fining me.  After a quick detour (read getting lost for 10 minutes), I got out my phone and used google maps, and a little luck, to find my way to the hostel. The hostel is stuck at the back of what looks like the creepy alleyways that people get murdered in on television, but once you get past the first 20 meters or so turns into a haven for small hotels, a few shops, and where I am staying tonight. 
Now for the really fun part, dealing with red tape.  That all started when I went to get a train ticket.  Of course it is in a government tourist office that has a ratio of about 50/1 of non-tourists to tourists waiting to be served.  After two hours of waiting I was told my fears, that all the tickets would be sold out as it says online, are NOT true and my waiting was not in vain.  I am now a proud owner of a ticket to my next stop, Jaisalmer.  Then there was the time spent trying to get cash because very few places accept credit cards.  And my debit card expired while I was in Ethiopia. On to the banks, well four banks and a few hours later I am finally convinced that no bank in India will let me do a cash advance on a credit card unless it is at the ATM.  Not having a PIN means this is impossible.  This is where I really want to do a shout out to Capital One credit cards.  Not only do they provide collect calls for international travelers having trouble, and no international fees, but they also helped me out by letting me get a PIN placed on the card right away, something they don't often do.  But they did it all in a short time allowing me to get money out and not starve to death in India. 
So tomorrow will be my first day of exploring the city, since I have not exactly had the opportunity yet, and then tomorrow night I will be on my first train ride in India.  Lets see if I can make it out of the country with nothing stolen now. LOL. 

Goodbye Ethiopia, Hello India!

Last blog post from Ethiopia. I am flying out. In about two hours I will be in the air on to my next adventure. It has been an intense two years and I won't go into it all again now but I am thankful that I got the opportunity to live and work among such amazing people both Ethiopian and foreigners. While I'm not going to miss the lack of water/power/cell network, I am going to miss the people. Thank you for the last two years and all the well wishes as I leave.
Goodbye for now
Trey
P.S. keep following if you want to see my exploits in India!

It's Official! I am a Returned Peace Corp Volunteer.

I am officially an RPCV!  After two years it is hard to believe I am finished with PC Ethiopia.  It has been an incredible two years filled with ups and downs your wouldn't believe.  I can't thank everyone enough for the support and love that has been sent my way.  Now on to India for the next adventure!

Saying Goodbye

Visiting the host family for the last time. The kids are finished with school and getting things ready for tomorrow. On the left they are cleaning the icicle molds, and on the left preparing the food for the restaurant tomorrow. Prep is a long job requiring a lot of chopping, cleaning, and pre-cooking. They get off school, and immediately start serving food, tending the shop, cooking, and cleaning.

Health Center

This is the health center in my town. It is where my site mate works. In Ethiopia there are both local clinics, and health centers or health posts. In the large towns both clinics and centers will have licensed doctors. In smaller towns like mine,

the centers/clinics have either nurses or simply "knowledgeable" people. The health posts are government extensions of the health centers and are usually used simply for getting vaccines etc.

Ethiopia-the Birthplace of Coffee

Making coffee is a pretty intense process. First you sort it, then you wash it, then sort again, then roast it, then you grind it (shown here) and finally you have to make the coffee. Having a buna ceremony is really a common thing here. People invite you to come have coffee, but what you learn quickly is only accept if you have time.

Going Away Party

My office had a small ceremony for me to thank me for coming to Gassera. They all wished me well and told me to come back one day.

Water Lines

As you probably know already we have been having problems with water. To be more precise we have not had water coming out of the faucet in a year. So to supplement the bottled water some of the government offices have started having, water tankers bring in water and each person working for the office can bring three Jerry cans a week to get water. This was actually a slow day, on busy days the line will wrap out of the gate. 

Chat and Getting Arrested

The bus is transporting people, probably to Ghinir, the town I got arrested in.  But if you look on top of the bus you can see it is carrying chat.  In America it is an illegal substance, but in Ethiopia it is completely legal and considered a cash crop. It is mostly chewed exclusively by men, and it can lead to people in your town having a bad opinion of you. While some people choose to chew only in secret, it is still common to see  drivers, and people in similar lines of work chewing. It is supposed to give a euphoric high, with the added benefit of being a stimulant, hense why drivers chew. 
The second picture is a horse gari (cart) commonly used to get around moderate distances. The number seen working varies but is largest during market days when people are being in supplies to sell, or carting away large bags of grains.  There is also a version of gari pulled by donkey, see my previous posts for a donkey gari with a tie.

My Office and Co-Workers

This is my office, the office of Agriculture and Environment. The "developments" (what I basically was) work to train farmers on the best techniques and practices to improve the livelihood of the farmers and minimize the environmental impacts of the practices. The second picture shows some of my co-workers who accepted me without question, helped me to figure out how to live in Ethiopia, and made sure I knew when it was our turn to get water (very important I promise).  

Free Ranging Animals

In Ethiopia the animals all run free. Most of them are just considered an annoyance. But on a rare occasion you will find someone who actually likes them.

Muddy Bus Trap

What happens when you have one day of rain and the roads are made of dirt?  You get a muddy bus trap.  On the way home and the roads are nearly impassible.  It still remains to be seen if I can get home or not.

Public Transportation

This is our bus situation from site into Robe. Sorry the picture is blurry but the road doesn't cooperate well with pictures. What you can't see is that we are crammed into the back of the bus with six people on the bench instead of the logical number of five. But hey, why pass up a chance to make people uncomfortable and making thirty extra birr.

Town Where I Live- Gasera, Ethiopia

I was asked to take a picture of my town. This is one of the main roads with buildings holding shops, and a donkey cart on the left side.  On the right there are foosball table for the kids to play on, and sugar cane for a sweet treat. Straight ahead the bamboo baskets hold bananas and other fruit brought up from the gorge to be sold at the intersection of the two main roads.

Another View of Compound

This is the reverse view from the door of my house. The middle building is the shint bet(bathroom).

Where I Live

This is my compound. My house is in the back of the picture mostly blocked. The house directly in front is a food prep/storage room. The one on the left is my land ladiy's kotched. The water tank on the right is part of my land lady's brother's construction projects as are the piles of rocks and sand. On the near left is my chicken coup.