Back from my first real vacation in Ethiopia. I have visited Hawassa for a day or two to refresh. But I just went to Harar for several days and was a real tourist for the first time. Harar is one of the oldest cities in Ethiopia, and it is a Muslim Holy city. It is a walled city, with the old city having museums, and buildings built around the time the city was started. Harar is also known for it's color. The people often wear brightly colored cloths, and almost all the buildings are painted in pastels, and other bright colors. It was truly an amazing place to visit. But, before I start on about the city, I should tell about getting OUT of Addis, and on the road.
I was in Addis for a GAD meeting, where we met our new members, and discussed planning for the upcomeing AGE summit. The day we were to leave Addis we got up and left the hotel around six AM. The bus station we had to get to is far outside of town, and taxis charge a lot to get there, so we decided to take the busses to get there. But, there was one problem, we weren't sure which buses to take. So on the corner of the road we asked a lady, and she happened to be going that way. She told us to wait with her and she would help us get on the bus. Well we were thinking we were waiting on a line-taxi (15 passenger vans that run specific short routes in town), but after maybe twenty minutes of waiting, we realized it must be a large city bus. None of us had ever ridden those busses, but the lady seemed to know what she was doing so we decided to give it a try. When the bus finally arrived we got on only to realize that they are SLOW. I mean, the distance that would have taken three or four minutes in a line taxi took ten. Then it is time to get off the bus...and we realize we have NO idea where we are. But, our friend from earlier finds us and tells us we have to get on another bus. So we get to our next stop, and we know we are in the general area of the bus station, but are still lost. We once again get told we have to find another bus. By this time we are over an hour past when we wanted to leave. So we try to get a taxi, but they are all full, the line taxis are also all full, and we aren't sure how we are going to make it to the station. Then a bus pulls up and ask where we are going. There is only a couple kids, the driver, and door man on the bus. He tells us they will take us to the station, but charge us ten birr each (we could have line taxied all the way from the hotel for less), but we agree. After a few stops we realize that only kids are getting on the bus and they are all in school uniforms. It was a school bus, and we were the only adults, much less Americans on the bus. The kids were from a private school so their English was pretty good, we ended up talking to them, and taking pictures. It was actually pretty fun after a rough start to the morning. The rest of the day we were on busses to get to Harrar. We finally get there, go to a hotel and rent a room. We managed to get local prices, instead of the foreigner mark up so we stayed in a sweet!
Ok, so now to Harar. It is truly a beautiful city. The culture is very unique, and the things to do are nearly limetless. We started the first day off going to the museum de Rembeau (sp), he was a french man that came to Ethiopia and lived in Harar for many years. We saw his art and poetry, as well as some of the history in pictures of the town. Then we wondered the town for a while just seeing the old city. After a while we met up with another part of our group, they had met a college kid who wanted to show us around town so he could practice his English. He first took us to the meat market. We arrived and a bunch of kids ran out immediatly and started holding out pieces of meat in their hands. But, to our surprise they weren't doing it for us to eat, but for the hawks on all the surrounding roof tops. As soon as they would open their hands a group of hawks would swoop down, and the first one there would grab the meat from their open hands. After that the began putting it on top of their heads. Soon, the brought us over and had us feed them. It was amazing to see these amazing animals with huge talons swoop down, and with barely a graze to our hands grab this piece of meat.
After the show, it was time for the group to try camel meat. I, as a vegetarian, of course did not try it. But, I was told that it was amazing to eat. Then we headed off for the Harar beer factory. Of course being in Harar, Harar beer is everywhere. But, it was cool to drink some straight from the source. Finally we closed out the night with dancing at a local club.
The next day we took it easy and just explored the city some more, then went to the pool for a while.
Then it was time for the wild day. We got up early and took a taxi out of the city to Babille Elephant sanctuary. After picking up an armed guard we drove a short way to a nearly dry river bead. After finding our way across we walked through a chat field, through some scrub land, and all of a sudden the guard told us to stop. Just off the path maybe fifty meters was an elephant. From there we went off onto a little foot path till we found an area with a better view. The guide had us each climb a tree to get a look. Then we continued on closer. We ended up so close the elephant got anxious and finally turned around and went off to the other two of its group. It was very cool seeing how quickly and easily these massive animals followed foot paths so narrow that at points we had to turn sideways. After tracking them for a while they managed to give us the slip. On the way back we watched some monkeys and went off the beaten path a little.
That night it was time to feed the hyenas. There are two men in Harar that have managed to get them calm enough they can be fed from sticks in your mouth. So after he called them over, we took turns feeding the hyenas. Then it was my turn, and he told me that the one coming up was the nicer one, and I should hug it. So of course as it comes to grab the food I wrapped it in a big bear hug. He quickly got tired of it, but it was interesting hugging an animal with one of the highest jaw pressures in the animal kingdom. After that it was time to close out the night with some pizza.
The ride home was long, and we went through Awash (a mostly desert area) and the whole bus full of people were on the verge of heat stroke. But, it was totally worth the long, arduous, trip to get to see that city. So far, my favorite place in Ethiopia.
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