Blog Disclaimer: The information presented here is the intellectual property of Eugene Foerster and does not represent the views, opinions or policies of the Peace Corps (peacecorps.gov), United States Government, Duke University, DukeEngage or any other organization in anyway.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Ethiopian Elections and Bodily Functions

5/25
We survived the election!  But, seriously the Ethiopian national election was yesterday.  PC was on high alert just to be on the safe side.  We were recommended to stay at our own house during the voting to make sure everyone was in a place PC could reach us.  Of course, with the cell network down for the last week I am not sure how they really thought they could reach me at all...  I was not worried about the election since my town is relatively small, and peaceful.  But, I did stay at my house, not because PC recommended it, but because the power was on ALL DAY!  It was the first time in at least six months.  To be honest, I only moved from my bed to go to the bathroom; for the rest of time I was watching the series "Grimm," I even cooked and ate from my bed.  I finished about a season and a half yesterday, my site mate came to my house to make sure I wasn't sick since he hadn't seen me, I then told him how I had to change my lunch plans because I was too lazy to put on real clothes and go the twenty steps out my front door to buy some bread.  All in all I consider it a very successful day!
On Saturday we went to the market just to get some supplies and eat prickly-pear fruit.  I still have the spines(hair-like prickers) from the fruit in my hand, and I am pretty sure one in my lip. From now on I am letting the Habesha peel my fruit for me.  When we finished we went for coffee and we were hanging out in front of Aster's coffee house.  The electronics store next door was playing music and "I'm Sexy and I Know It" by LMFAO came on.  Ali, the store keeper, skipped it as he does all forenji music until I went over and fussed at him.  He quickly turned it back and I started singing dancing in front of the coffee house.  About that time one of the large buses loaded down with well over a hundred people drove slowly by. The redats (door men) cheered me on, and the passengers could all be seen with their faces pressed to the windows to watch the white boy dancing.  How is that for spreading understanding of Americans to Ethiopia!
Last fun story for now: I was at MSC (mid service training) in the "Teaching HIV at camps" session.   It was time for Jeopardy and we had to decide who would go first.  In true PC fashion it was decided that the last person to have crapped their pants would be first to go.  Everyone began to try and figure out if they were first, it was settled that someone who had a few months ago would be first to go when I raised my hand.  I said that I was pretty certain I would be first having had a problem about two weeks prior.  I won, and our team went on to dominate! 
Random thought, you learn to love the rain after you do laundry.  At least, those of us who are lazy do.  Doing laundry by hand is the worst.  Ask my mom, I used to hate doing laundry because I don't like to fold clothes.  Well now, doing laundry entails wetting, soaping, scrubbing, rinse scrubbing, rinsing, and THEN folding.  So you can image how I now feel about laundry.  Since my laundry lady stopped doing laundry (I am not sure if she was fired, or decided she doesn't like doing it, or what) I have been doing my own.  No surprise, I am lazy about it, and often skip the second rinse.  That means, that quite often my laundry goes on the line to dry with a little ,or a lot, of soap still on it.  But, that is where the rain comes in.  The Ethiopian second rinse is a well known/loved part of the Ethiopian weather by PCVs. 
Crapping in a hole... when people think of travelling to foreign countries they often dread the hole.  I don't know if it is because we think it is unsanitary, even though our rears never have to touch something that was touched by a thousand other peoples butt cheeks that day; or if we think it will be uncomfortable, you do have to figure out the right position so your legs don't go to sleep but after that it is so much more...linear for things to make their way out.  But I really have come to enjoy them.  Don't get me wrong, a nice porcelain throne can make a day once in a while.  But I really do like the way a shinta bet works.  Now, to be fair there are BAD shinta bets.  Whether it is lack of cleanliness, or the ever dreaded splash back!!!  Imagine squatting over a hole in the ground, doing your business above a lake of filth below, then all of a sudden you hear a splash and feel the drips of a million bowel movements ever so (not)gently hit your buttocks.  The thoughts that go through your mind are hardly repeatable in a blog.  But, horror stories aside I think I am going to miss the squat toilet. 
Hopefully I have entertained, and disgusted a few of you.  The rest, well this is just how my brain is functioning today. I should soon be back to the more orderly, and fulfilling blog posts shortly.  Until next time.

One Year Service

5/17
G10 is now one year into service.  It is hard to image even what I was doing one year ago.  How scary it was coming to site.  Trying to figure out what the heck I was doing in the middle of rural Ethiopia, or what I was going to do with myself for two whole years here.  Now, some days I can honestly say I still ask the same questions.  But, some days I can't help but wonder about how I am in Africa, living, and working among new friends and people I could never have imagined a year ago.  I'm reading a book now called "One Hand Does Not Catch A Buffalo."  It is a book that was created as one in a series about the development of Peace Corps and to celebrate its fiftieth anniversary.  Reading it is reinforcing the amazing history I have found myself a part of. 
For those of you who really don't know what Peace Corps is, or what we REALLY do I want to explain a little.  For that I am going to add a little history first.  The PC was proposed several times before it was actually adopted.  When it was put before President Nixon, it was rejected as just another way for people to "dodge" the draft.  Then Kennedy, as a presidential candidate, on October 14, 1960 asked students at the University of Michigan at 2 a.m. how many would be prepared to give years of their lives working in Asia, Africa, and Latin America.  The day after his election the new President asked Sargent Shriver to form a presidential task force to report how the Peace Corps should be organized, and to make it happen.  Within one month the report was presented to the president on the morning of Friday, February 24, 1961 with the promise that "If you decide to go ahead, we can be in business by Monday morning."  From that, the PC was conceived with the goals of "contributing to the development of critical countries and regions; promoting international cooperation and goodwill towards this country; and contributing to the education of America and to more intelligent American participation in the world."  To this day the Peace Corps still works towards these same, slightly reworded, ideas. 
In February, 2014, I joined the ranks of Peace Corps volunteers to train for Peace Corps service.  At the inception of PC volunteers had to do training such as Tarzan style rope swings into nets, and morning runs, things like language training, home stay, and yes, even drinking the local home-made alcohols remain to this day an integral part of training,  Many other things have been removed from the training program.  The main theme of every PC post in the world is integration.  Some volunteers may never have what they consider a "successful" project.  But, making household gardens, or teaching English is not what PC is about.  Sure, those may play a role in what we do, but goal two and three are all about understanding.  If we can help our community understand American culture, and bring back our host countries culture to America then we have succeeded in our service. 
All of that is great, but it doesn't really tell you what Peace Corps Volunteers really do!  We promote world peace, we spread culture, we help train people to better their lives and the lives of their countrymen.  But, what does that mean.  Well if you ask any PCV what they thought they were coming to do when they joined PC, nine times out of ten they will say "I wanted to change the world."  Then if you ask Returned Peace Corps Volunteers what they did they will say I am the one that changed.  We who join PC are the idealists.  The people who want to go out and teach a community, and see their whole communities lives change.  Then when you get into your host community and see how things really work you start to understand that probably isn't going to happen.  But, what really changes?  Other than yourself, it is the people you interact with day to day.  Maybe you teach a women to make a tippy tap to wash their hands before they feed their baby and help prevent the baby from catching a water borne illness.  Or perhaps you teach a man living with HIV how to make a bio-intensive garden so he can feed himself.  Or maybe you tutor a student and help them do better on their exams so they can get into university.  There are plenty of examples of volunteers helping to build wells to help water their entire village, but by far the the average volunteer feels their service is a success from the small actions that affect one or two people.  And, by affecting that one you better their lives.  From there that one person tells one or two people, who in turn tells one or two more.  And that one small action can change the whole community.  That is what PC really is.  The small actions, that can go on to change the world. 
So if you are thinking about joining Peace Corps what is the advice I would give you?   First of all I would say do it!  Understand that when they say it is the "toughest job you will ever love" they aren't kidding.  PC service will try you in every way possible.  You will have the worst days of your life, and the best.  I would also say come with the idea of "changing the world."  Maybe you will realize that you probably aren't going to change the world.  But it is like one of my favorite quotes "what is an ocean but a multitude of drops."  So while you might not change the world; you will be part of a history of PCVs who are changing the world and making it a better place.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Harar

2/5
Back from my first real vacation in Ethiopia.  I have visited Hawassa for a day or two to refresh.  But I just went to Harar for several days and was a real tourist for the first time.  Harar is one of the oldest cities in Ethiopia, and it is a Muslim Holy city.  It is a walled city, with the old city having museums, and buildings built around the time the city was started.  Harar is also known for it's color.  The people often wear brightly colored cloths, and almost all the buildings are painted in pastels, and other bright colors.  It was truly an amazing place to visit.  But, before I start on about the city, I should tell about getting OUT of Addis, and on the road.
I was in Addis for a GAD meeting, where we met our new members, and discussed planning for the upcomeing AGE summit.  The day we were to leave Addis we got up and left the hotel around six AM.  The bus station we had to get to is far outside of town, and taxis charge a lot to get there, so we decided to take the busses to get there.  But, there was one problem, we weren't sure which buses to take.  So on the corner of the road we asked a lady, and she happened to be going that way.  She told us to wait with her and she would help us get on the bus.  Well we were thinking we were waiting on a line-taxi (15 passenger vans that run specific short routes in town), but after maybe twenty minutes of waiting, we realized it must be a large city bus.  None of us had ever ridden those busses, but the lady seemed to know what she was doing so we decided to give it a try.  When the bus finally arrived we got on only to realize that they are SLOW.  I mean, the distance that would have taken three or four minutes in a line taxi took ten.  Then it is time to get off the bus...and we realize we have NO idea where we are.  But, our friend from earlier finds us and tells us we have to get on another bus.  So we get to our next stop, and we know we are in the general area of the bus station, but are still lost.  We once again get told we have to find another bus.   By this time we are over an hour past when we wanted to leave.  So we try to get a taxi, but they are all full, the line taxis are also all full, and we aren't sure how we are going to make it to the station.  Then a bus pulls up and ask where we are going.  There is only a couple kids, the driver, and door man on the bus.  He tells us they will take us to the station, but charge us ten birr each (we could have line taxied all the way from the hotel for less), but we agree.  After a few stops we realize that only kids are getting on the bus and they are all in school uniforms.  It was a school bus, and we were the only adults, much less Americans on the bus.  The kids were from a private school so their English was pretty good, we ended up talking to them, and taking pictures.  It was actually pretty fun after a rough start to the morning.  The rest of the day we were on busses to get to Harrar.  We finally get there, go to a hotel and rent a room.  We managed to get local prices, instead of the foreigner mark up so we stayed in a sweet!
Ok, so now to Harar.  It is truly a beautiful city.  The culture is very unique, and the things to do are nearly limetless.  We started the first day off going to the museum de Rembeau (sp), he was a french man that came to Ethiopia and lived in Harar for many years.  We saw his art and poetry, as well as some of the history in pictures of the town.  Then we wondered the town for a while just seeing the old city.  After a while we met up with another part of our group, they had met a college kid who wanted to show us around town so he could practice his English.  He first took us to the meat market.  We arrived and a bunch of kids ran out immediatly and started holding out pieces of meat in their hands.  But, to our surprise they weren't doing it for us to eat, but for the hawks on all the surrounding roof tops.  As soon as they would open their hands a group of hawks would swoop down, and the first one there would grab the meat from their open hands.  After that the began putting it on top of their heads.  Soon, the brought us over and had us feed them.  It was amazing to see these amazing animals with huge talons swoop down, and with barely a graze to our hands grab this piece of meat.
After the show, it was time for the group to try camel meat.  I, as a vegetarian, of course did not try it.  But, I was told that it was amazing to eat.  Then we headed off for the Harar beer factory.  Of course being in Harar, Harar beer is everywhere.  But, it was cool to drink some straight from the source.  Finally we closed out the night with dancing at a local club.
The next day we took it easy and just explored the city some more, then went to the pool for a while.
Then it was time for the wild day.  We got up early and took a taxi out of the city to Babille Elephant sanctuary.  After picking up an armed guard we drove a short way to a nearly dry river bead.  After finding our way across we walked through a chat field, through some scrub land, and all of a sudden the guard told us to stop.  Just off the path maybe fifty meters was an elephant.  From there we went off onto a little foot path till we found an area with a better view.  The guide had us each climb a tree to get a look.  Then we continued on closer.  We ended up so close the elephant got anxious and finally turned around and went off to the other two of its group.  It was very cool seeing how quickly and easily these massive animals followed foot paths so narrow that at points we had to turn sideways.  After tracking them for a while they managed to give us the slip.  On the way back we watched some monkeys and went off the beaten path a little.
That night it was time to feed the hyenas.  There are two men in Harar that have managed to get them calm enough they can be fed from sticks in your mouth.  So after he called them over, we took turns feeding the hyenas.  Then it was my turn, and he told me that the one coming up was the nicer one, and I should hug it.  So of course as it comes to grab the food I wrapped it in a big bear hug.  He quickly got tired of it, but it was interesting hugging an animal with one of the highest jaw pressures in the animal kingdom.  After that it was time to close out the night with some pizza.
The ride home was long, and we went through Awash (a mostly desert area) and the whole bus full of people were on the verge of heat stroke.  But, it was totally worth the long, arduous, trip to get to see that city.  So far, my favorite place in Ethiopia.


Time Flies!

5/14/15  It has been a while since I posted.  I think I am getting lazy about this whole blogging thing.  The biggest thing that comes to my mind is how time flies.  It has been a whole year since I arrived at site, and fifteen months since I landed in Ethiopia.  It has been an amazing year.  I have met great people, both habesha, and forenji.  I have met people who I will call friends for the rest of my life.  And I have seen things, both good and bad, that will forever be a part of me.  Looking forward to the year ahead I am worried that it is going to go TOO fast.  I have so much to do, so many things to see, and people who I want to work with.  In the next few months I hope to do two bee and honey training sessions, work more with the GAD committee, train both G12, and G13 on different subjects, have a mini-camp this summer in my town, improve the communities existing projects, continue my work with the bees, and have at least one bio-intensive garden training session.  I also have ideas for working on nutrition, oral rehydration solutions, sanitation, and about a dozen things that don't pop into my head at just this time.  On top of that my vacation in America is quickly approaching!  About once a day I get all excited about having the sand between my toes, sitting on a beach, with a drink in my hand and I get soo excited...Oh, and seeing family; that is what I really think of first...no really. 
We are all about to leave Addis.  G10 has been here for Mid-service conference and it has been amazing seeing everyone and, between sessions, trying to catch up.  It has been a week and a half of being stabbed by doctors, eating the buffet at the Sheraton hotel (the best food I have had in the last year), and sitting through sometimes great and sometimes terrible sessions.  I have a taxi taking me to the bus station tomorrow at 5:30AM.  Then it will be nine months until I get to see all these amazing people at one time again.  I have been saying all week how I wanted to leave early to go back to site.  I consider it one of my great accomplishments that I now consider Gassera home, and I am home sick.  That being said I am truly sad to have to be saying goodbye. 
Going forward I am preparing myself.  I have made a list of goals for myself.  Things like smiling at people more, taking it less personally when people call me forenji, and being more forceful in order to get people to help me with projects which are high on my list.  I also have a list of projects I want to accomplish before I leave.  On top of that, I am planning on having a horse within the next two weeks.  I know, I know; I have been saying that for a year.  I have even earned myself a line in the AG wheels on the bus song "the Trey on the bus, still no horse, still no horse."  I swear though, it is going to happen!  Also I just got my chickens; I ordered them about four months, and of course they choose to bring them the week that I am in training.  But, I am excited to become a chicken farmer.  All of this, and all within the constricts of travelling to Addis every two to three weeks until it is time for my vacation.  So here is too the next year, and my future sanity!
Miss you all everyday, and can't wait to be back for a whole MONTH!